Thursday, August 22, 2013

Food Dysphoria



It's been a while since I've posted. I'd blame it on having a kid but I know it's much more than that. I'm starting to suspect that something really awful is happening in the world via our food supply. Food allergies? I thought that happened to formula fed babies with weak immune systems and moms who ate lots of processed foods during pregnancy. Ok, yes I can be judgmental, but I never thought my kid would be diagnosed with half a dozen major food allergies. Autoimmune disorders? I had no real understanding until I was diagnosed with one.

These diagnoses came within a few days of each other, and the outlook? No more dairy, wheat, eggs, peanuts, tree nuts or seeds for both of us. So there goes 99% of my normal cooking repertoire, right out the window. Its been a process of re-learning how to cook, and delving into the conspiracy theory laden world of GMO's and disturbing facts about how food has changed so much over the last 20 years or so. A world I wish I never had to be part of.

I've always been aware of health issues. I understand whole foods, I was vegan for a while in college, I always bought organic dairy, whole grains and free range eggs. I'm back and forth on the meat thing, but in the end I also have issues with sugar and I need to keep my protein levels constant. Lots of people do. Sugar is a nightmare and has proven to be even worse for me during my run with Graves Disease. It would set me off at the drop of a hat, but I still haven't been able to kick it. I have an insatiable sweet tooth.

Cooking and eating lost a lot of its appeal over the last year. I started really despising having to shop and plan meals. Lots of gluten free foods are awful, and many dairy alternatives are even worse. I have always loved food, which I think made me even more angry at the things they are trying to pass off as 'cheese' and 'bread'. There are a few things that have saved me though, and this is why I am posting today, for anyone trying to heal their bodies and/or the environment through their food choices or, of course, anyone avoiding certain foods because they might actually kill you, thats always a good reason too. To share a few saving graces recipes that made this journey a little easier to swallow, literally...



TOFU PIE
This is so damn easy. I'm not big on soy replacements, with the phyto-estrogens and GMO issues, I would never go overboard with soy. But everything in moderation right? And this is one of the few things I make that is so good that I let it slide. I've discovered that eating some protein along with sugar helps keep sugar levels from spiking and crashing. It really does work, its an amazing tip. (Gymnema is also a great herb that helps balance sugar)

1 package of silken tofu
1/2 bag of chocolate chips (dairy free if need be, or whatever kind you like)
2 TBSP or so liquid (try orange juice, kirsch, amaretto, extracts etc whatever you like with your chocolate)
honey to taste (about a TBSP)

Combine chocolate, liquid and honey, and microwave like me, for 30 second intervals, or double boiler melt if you are a purist with the time. Stir and add more liquid if needed. Keep going until glossy and smooth.
In a food processor combine chocolate mixture with tofu and blend for a couple of minutes until really smooth. No tiny bits of tofu should be visible. Keep blending and be patient.

Pour the mixture into a pie crust, homemade if you cant find a pre-made without junk in it. Or pour into ramekins for individual 'mousses'. Refridgerate for a couple of hours. Boom. Done. Amazing.


VEGENAISE BASED LUNCH SALADS                               I never really cared much about mayonnaise until I couldn't have it anymore. Lunch can be hard, deli meats are full of nitrates and aren't great without bread, sandwiches kind of suck without cheese anyway, but tuna salad, chicken salad, lobster salad etc... You have more control over the ingredients in these, and they are great with rice crackers or over beds of leafy greens. I was hooked. And Vegenaise is a slightly tangier, less jiggly, amazing substitute for mayo in just about anything. And best of all, there are no recipes to follow, just chop stuff up and throw it in, my favorite way to cook.
CHICKEN SALAD: The best roast chicken off the bone you can get your hands on, halved grapes, chopped celery, diced red onion, chopped fresh tarragon, salt pepper and Vegenaise. (alternaive, add Madras curry powder to taste)
LOBSTER SALAD: Fresh or thawed frozen lobster meat, thoroughly patted dry, chopped fresh dill, squeeze of lemon juice and Vegenaise.
WHITE BEAN TUNA SALAD: This one is my favorite go-to pantry lunch. Oil packed italian tuna, small white beans, chopped oil cured black olives, capers, diced sweet pickles, chopped fresh basil salt pepper and Vegenaise.
SHRIMP SALAD: Rough chopped cooked shrimp (the frozen deveined ones with tail on are decent, buy the biggest ones available, you can tell by how many per pound, it might say 25 per lb or 50 per lb, go for 25 per lb) a little horseradish, fresh grated if you can find it, lemon juice, fresh chopped dill or other herb, salt pepper and Vegenaise.

WHEAT FREE FRUIT CRISPS
The best summer dessert. Mix up rolled oats and a wheat free flour (oat, rice, coconut etc) in a 1:1 ratio. Add in brown sugar and coconut oil until crumbly and sweet enough for your taste. I like to add some cinnamon and vanilla to the mix.
Slice up some fruits, plums, nectarines, pears, apples, berries, whatever you like, mix with a little vanilla and or liquor (I like brandy) and sugar if your fruit is tart. Pour oat mixture on top and bake at 350 for about 45 minutes to an hour (until bubbling around the edges) These are good with coconut vanilla non dairy ice cream.








BLACK BEAN BROWNIES
Replace the oil and eggs from any brownie recipe or box mix with one can of pureed black beans, rinsed. I like to add a little coconut oil back in because I don't think "fat-free" is necessarily good and it improves the texture. The protein/sugar combo makes these easy to process and the extra fiber fills you up and helps digestion.

THE BEST EGG SUBSTITUTE FOR BAKING
There are so many egg subs out there, powders and liquids with tons of qualifiers and directions for different recipes. I've tried them all, but the best I've found is flax meal. Not only does it work beautifully but its also nutritious. The omegas in flax replace the ones you would have gotten from your free range eggs, perfect. Use 1 TBSP flax meal mixed with 3 TBSP hot water for each egg. I mix it up at the beginning of my recipe and by the time I need it, it's reached the perfect slightly gelatinous eggy texture. If you recipe needs less liquid, just add less to the flax, its that simple.

SEED FREE HUMMUS
Sesame seeds actually landed my son in the emergency room a month or so ago, so I'm very cautious about having them around now. Additionally, tahini can be very expensive and some people, like me, just don't care for the bitter taste. There's no reason you can't eliminate it, this is my very favorite hummus recipe, I've been making it for years.
In a food processor throw in a can of rinsed chick peas, the juice of one large lemon, a TBSP or so of Madras curry powder, a few cloves of peeled garlic and about 1/4 cup of olive oil. If you want to cut some of the fat you can add orange juice or water, but liquid must be added to get the right texture. Blend for a few minutes until really smooth, add liquid as needed, add salt and pepper to taste and blend through. Serve with crackers, raw veggies and on sandwiches etc. I'll even heap some onto a salad. Best served room temperature.

NUT AND CHEESE FREE PESTO
This pesto is by nature a little thinner than your normal pesto, so take care to really dry your basil and don't overdo the lemon juice or it will get too watery, but the flavor is bright and fresh and amazing.
Lots of fresh basil leaves
Juice and zest from 1 small lemon
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
(alternatives, make it with fresh spinach or any other herbs you like)
Serve on pasta, on pizza (add at the end, baking basil makes it go brown) with seafood and grilled veggies, mix in with steamed rice, the possibilities are endless.

These are just a few, I need to go make lunch for the little guy now, enjoy.

Thursday, August 18, 2011

Summer Fruits with Lime, Honey and Mint


Ok, you read the heading right? Yup, its really that easy.

Chop fruits that you like
Put in bowl
Drizzle honey
Zest a lime
Add a little lime juice (depending on tartness of your fruit)
Chop mint
Toss

Serve alone, or with greek yogurt and pistachios, or with ice cream
I <3 summer

Saffron Linguine Clams with Summer Tomatoes



I make a basic linguine clam dinner year round. Its such a great pantry dish, with good canned clams always on hand, lots of garlic and a little cream. But in the summer months I need to take full advantage of the flavors of the season. The light floral of saffron and diced heirloom tomatoes in green, yellow and red hues really brighten up this dish, and the addition of some fresh steamed clams give it that summery right from the sea saltiness. And it's still as easy as ever.

Cook your linguine (I like skinny linguine fini) in a big pot of salted water
Meanwhile, saute a couple cloves of garlic in olive oil (I like to grate my garlic with a microplane, it takes less time and it releases all those luscious oils)
Add a splash of white wine and a pinch of saffron, let this simmer until the saffron begins to release
Toss in a small can of chopped clams with their salty juices and a splash of half and half
And a handful of scrubbed steamers if you want to add some fresh ones too
Let it all simmer until the clams begin to open
(If you didn't do something fancy like soak your clams overnight in cornmeal and water, which I never think to do, you will want to carefully remove them and rinse out any sand. Either pop them back in whole, or chop them up and add to the sauce like I did in this photo)
Finish with a little lemon zest and cracked pepper, taste for salt, often the clams have just enough

For garnish, find the best tomatoes you can, preferably local ones from a farmstand or farmers market
Chop up coarsely, drizzle with good olive oil, a pinch of salt and chopped parsley
Serve family style on a big platter with crusty bread


Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Summer Tomato Sandwiches


There is nothing that tastes more like summer than a real, unadulterated tomato sandwich. Nothing that relies more on the simplest quality components. Fresh baked crusty bread, ripe summer tomatoes, good mayo, and a little cracked pepper and sea salt. That's it. Waxy grocery store tomatoes and squishy bread step aside, this is not your stage. This is the trifecta of summer, a showcase for wonderfruit, where luxe meets country. Sure you could add a fresh basil leaf or two, herb up your mayo, grate lemon zest, slip on a slice of fresh mozz or prosciutto, but there's really no need. Like a perfect apple pie in october, let it stand alone, speak of its history, indulge your senses and make you feel connected to the soil beneath your feet, for just a moment's respite on a hot summer's day.

Sunday, September 12, 2010

The Ultimate Bonac Beachplum Jelly















What an amazing year for beachplums. Even if you don't know about beachplums, chances are, you've heard someone talking about them recently. These tart little gems pop out right around labor day and tend to be prolific in cycles. Last year there was nary a plum to be found. This year, millions of them. Their earthy, plummy, tartness lends itself to great chutneys, jams and jellies. The recipe handed down to me through generations of bonac grandmas is a dense well-strained jelly, producing a jewel-like clarity and kicky tartness. Packed with vitamin A and C, antioxidants and minerals, and arguably, a little bit of magic, a batch of beachplum jelly is definitely worth the effort.

First, find the beachplums...
There are so many places to find beachplums in the Hamptons. Try Sammy's Beach, Lazy Point or Maidstone bay. I can't ethically say much more than that, but if the intent is genuine and the season is generous you will find them.
Collect a few pails of them, watching out for poison ivy and briar patches along the way.

Second, prep your fruit...
Fill your sink with fresh water and remove sticks, leaves and squishy fruit from your bounty. Don't worry about each and every stem, remember you are straining pits and skins anyway.

Third, pull out your juice...
Fill pots with fruit, add just a little water to keep them from sticking (this keeps the jelly dense and flavorful) and simmer constantly, smashing with a potato masher until the liquid is burgandy dark, the pits are separated and the flesh appears weak and orangey. Cool and strain through cheesecloth placed in a colander over big glass bowls. Squish all the remaining juice out, then strain through cheesecloth again (this ensures the most jewel-like jelly possible)

Fourth, make the jelly...
Pour all of your juice into large pots, measuring as you go. Add 1 cup of sugar for every cup of juice. Stir well and bring to a rolling boil (watch closely to prevent a boilover, contant stirring is recommended, I learned this the hard way) When boiling, add 2 packets of Certo for every 5 cups of juice, and continue to boil until the liquid coats a metal spoon thickly.

Fifth, jar your jelly...
Pour the hot jelly into sterile mason jars (sterilize in boiling water according to jar directions) cap tightly, turn upside down for 5 minutes. Turn back over and cool. You should hear the lids pop with suction over the next 24 hours which ensures a tight seal. Any jars that dont pop should be refrigerated as soon as they jell and should be used first. The others will keep for about a year safely.

Now you have the most coveted treats in town and everyone is suddenly your best friend. Enjoy the popularity. You deserve it.

Almond Fig Cake

Fragrant with the allure of warm almond croissants on a winter morning. Fresh figs glistening under a blanket of apricot rum glaze. This simple and elegant cake is the marriage of two different recipes, one by Julia Child, the other by Giada DeLaurentis. The figs and glaze are a new addition and may be replaced with apricots and glaze or simply a dusting of confectionary sugar.

Mix and set aside:
1/2 cup fine yellow corn meal or corn flour
1/2 cup cake or all purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt

Beat together in separate bowl:
2 sticks of unsalted butter softened
1/2 cup almond paste

Add and beat in:
1 cup sugar
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
6 whole eggs

Continue beating until yellow, light and fluffy (about 1-2 additional minutes)
Add and beat in flour mixture a bit at a time
Pour into buttered and floured cake pan
Bake at 340 for up to an hour (40 min on convection setting) or until set and golden (toothpick comes out clean and cake doesnt jiggle)

Cook on rack, flip onto plate, brush with glaze and place figs as desired.

Glaze:
1/2 cup apricot preserves
1-2 tbsp rum
heat until thinned and brush on with pastry brush

serve alone, with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

A Tale of Grilling: Told in Two Acts
















The Caveman-esque experience of grilling is primal and satisfying, quick and simple, communally celebratory and solitarily zen. Not only are the meals we prepare on the grill incredible, but the leftovers are epic. Here, in two acts, over the course of four nights, I hope you find some inspiration for your own evolutionary grilling tale.

Act One: Night One
Fire up the grill, all the way up, hardwoods, charcoals, bask in the glory of the flame
Slather chicken parts in BBQ sauce, hot or mild, maybe A1, mmm love A1
Drizzle corn on the cob with olive oil, salt and pepper
Grill chicken and corn until cooked through and slightly blackened
Serve with a fresh spring salad of spinach, berries, lemon juice and olive oil














Act One: Night Two
Shred leftover chicken
Slice leftover grilled corn off the cobs
Warm up and serve with tortillas, sliced avocado, salsa and sour cream

Act Two: Night One
Fire up the grill again, smell those burning tidbits, leave em on for flavor, mmm...
Slather Turkey, Chicken or Pork sausages in grilling sauce
Drizzle onion and pepper slices with olive oil, salt and pepper
Grill everything until cooked through and slightly blackened
Serve sausages on crusty rolls with onions, peppers and extra grilling sauce












Act Two: Night Two
Slice up leftover sausages, onions and peppers
Mix into deli prepared red potato salad
sprinkle with fresh thyme leaves
Grill up your favorite burgers (I like A1, parmesan, garlic and parsley mixed in)
Serve with potato salad

Translate this evolutionary succession of grilling straight through the summer, grill pizzas, peaches, pineapples, shrimp kebabs, figs, tomatoes, bread for bruschetta, use leftover meats for brunches, egg sandwiches, grill your desserts and snacks and live happily ever after, or until the briskness of fall cozies up our kitchens again.